Yocto 808 building tips

Some tips and notes on how i built my TR808 clone, the marvellous Yocto 808 project!

Buy the kit and subscribe to the forum here: http://www.e-licktronic.com/en/content/25-yocto-tr808-clone-tr-808

yocto hlf kit received

I do not think it is a difficult nor long build – i spent a couple of hours at every day off on it, for about a month.
The excitement of being able to own an 808 drove me, and gave me the needed focus and patience boost.

yocto genesis (09)

When building the Yocto, it is very important to measure every component before soldering it.
I decided to buy the resistors needed each time I was going to start a new section. This relieved me from measuring hundreds of resistors in one tiring session, put them in order all at once, etc.
I bought a paper note book on which I would tape, writing down their value and position the components, as I prepared them for each part. This helped me double check them before and while soldering them to the boards.

yocto tips notebook

I decided to socket all the IC’s and the noise section transistor.
The germanium diodes provided in the half kit are rare, treat them with care. I cut the curvy terminals to have a straight lead as per picture here.

yocto diodes
Check the pictures I enclose here to clarify certain ic’s position.
I made the mistake of putting all the pots at the end, do not do it, it is a mess. Just follow the build guide-do it as recommended, at the end of each section.
Please note that you do not have to cut the lead cables at the end of the build (i did it!), what Vincent meant in the last paragraph of the build guide is, you can make them shorter.
I had some issues with the flat cables, aka they broke, so i socketed them too. It is advisable to have a suitable enclosure ready before you get to link the two pcbs with flat cable, otherwise having the boards moving around will cause them to break.

yocto genesis (32)
Usually the boards sit a bit shallow in the enclosures, do not use led covers and cut them about the height of the sequencer’s coloured buttons.
Use 5mm spacers to lift the board up and have it sit properly, the keys will stick out properly through the holes.

(see pic at the top of the post)

A few more tips to build the yocto, not a mod guide by any means, more like a ‘watch out for’ list, for instance where to look if you would like to change the value of some resistors to change the tuning of the instruments.. and other useful things to know as you go along.

A lot of these ideas are to be found in the yocto forum, but here is whatever I found essential to complete the build without headaches.

For a more in depth mods’ list, google dsl-man yocto mods.

THE NOISE SECTION
As opposed to the building guide, a more effective functionality of the noise generator can be achieved with this mod, as per the official Roland service manual (page 15):
R 129 use a jumper instead of the resistor listed
R 131 100k
R 127 10uF
R 130 22pF in parallel with resistor 130 (it means on top of the resistor, using the same soldering points – check the pic, i soldered it on the other side of the board)

I socketed Q35 as it is a very substantial part of the noise generator.

yocto noise section mod betternoise section yocto 808 mod

ACCENT
C 27 1n2 for 1ms pulse, needed for an effective accent

BASS DRUM
R 165 tuning resistor

SNARE
R 234 47k (positioned in the Low Tom section)
R 188 check its position carefully
R 195 tuning resistor 1
R 196 tuning resistor 2
R 202 noise filter resistor

yocto toms

yocto genesis (14)

LOW TOM
R 231 to lower pitch, use a 4k7 resistor (or increase value to lower pitch)

MID TOM
R 257 tuning resistor

HI TOM
R 284 tuning resistor

yocto genesis (16)

CLAVE/RIMSHOT
R 312 tuning resistor
R 315 tuning resistor
R 334 and
R 373 are part of the Hand Clap circuit, although they are to be found here

HAND CLAP
R 342 and
C 137 may have a solder bridge, it is ok
Do not rush to solder the BA6110 ic, it is better to socket it and add it at a later time, please check the picture here to have it positioned correctly.

yocto genesis (29)

COWBELL
R 63 decay resistor 1
R 65 decay resistor 2

CYMBAL
Look at this section before trying to find the position of the components. It is L shaped.
R 56 noise filter resistor 1
R 58 noise filter resistor 2 (this is in common with the HiHat)
C 6 and
C 42 and
C 44 and
C 46 I did not have any 22pF caps in my stash so I used, 27nF instead.

INPUT OUTPUT BOARD

Please note the position of this IC

yocto genesis (30)

yocto genesis (22)

Before you put the keys in, make sure your enclosure will let them stick out properly (as stated before, they sit a bit shallow), and use spacers the right height to suit your eclosure..

My Yocto fired properly first off.
I made all the trimmer’s adjustment upon finishing it.
I am very satisfied by the result. Vincent has been very helpful too, and the YOCTO forum is an invaluable resource.

yocto genesis (26)

Thanks Pawluk for the sturdy enclosure!

2016 02 222

midi pal, midi merge, midi quad through

2015 settembre 030

I’ve been delving in building myself a comfy, compact and easy setup to play some acid house, quickly and easily, just for some late night/early morning headphone action.

i built a midipal, aka a midibud, an excellent midi do-it-all thingie that boasts sequencer, arpeggiator, midi filter, midi echo, midi filter, midi-whatever-you could possibly think of. It is a very useful addition to cheap synths that dont have an apeggiator, at least.

since my TR707 doesnt like to be a slave to external midi clocks, it had to be the master of the whole setup.

i had to use a midisolutions QUAD THROUGH box, to be able to multiply the lone TR707’s midi out.

everything is more or less connected there. another useful box from the aforementioned company, the MERGE box. Since to use the midipal arpeggiator you need both clock and keys in, to out the arpeggio, i merged the clock from the through box, and midi out from my poly800 to the input of the midipal, and midipal out to midi in of the poly800.

Also featured, a Mode Machines x0xb0x (mki, when they were still made in Germany), i also have one from x0xs0urce, but this sounds a lot more trebly and acid. the other one is a lot smoother and bassier.

The system works a beauty. The Electribe plays some samples, from my Commodore 64 sound archive (i was a baby SID programmer in 1983), and sometimes triggers, ace analog drum box, MAM’s adx-1.

Everything is connected to some outboard fx, most notably MAM’s vintage spring reverb, a Dynacord Vertical Reverberation System, and a Lexicon MPX550 (my first digital multi fx rack, wow!) set to ‘Basement’.

I will post sounds as soon as i get my head together on this project..

wah wah heaven

2582 2579

After a while of non-activities, i took the wah projects by the balls and finished them successfully.

Inductors: one is a Stack o Dimes, the other is called a Hasel inductor, both handmade by the nice guys at ARTeffects in Israel.

Pots: ArtCARs.

Caps: i found an ancient italian preamp with the right caps type and values at a car boot sale, they’re the surf green ones you see on the stack o dimes build. I swapped the cheap greenies you see pictured on the other build with some tropical fish ones, just for mojo sake.

The two wahs do sound different.

PCBs by gp.electronics@gmail.com (Greece)

and NO Volkswagen for me, thanks.

2739

Messin with the Klon

image

Yesterday i was busy making two Klon Centaur clones.
Months ago i bought the last two Chimaera pcbs from the cat over at Grind Customs Fx.
Very well made boards i must say.
I got me some 50 x D9E germanium diodes, the latest darlings of klon builders the world over and plunged into this build, keeping in mind and on the bom the latest (2014) discoveries by the byoc guys on the silver klon (the golden enclosure came first, the silver came later, improving on tone and volume control).
Elna electros, philips, greenies, etc caps.
Metal and carbon film resistors, 1590BB build #1:

image

I had to lower the value of a 20k log pot down to 10k for the volume knob using a resistor across pins 1-3.
This was made for my friend Luca.
Next, it’s mine:

image

Same caps n resistors chan pon here.
This time to make the volume pot a log, i used a 10k lin, a 2k resistor from pin 2 to ground.
Same blue minotaur lsd blotter art employed..

image

On the first build, the gain pot would run funny: regular until 3/4 its taper, then volume would drop.
Heres what i found out about the klon:
YOU MUST audition/measure LOADS of TL072 to get the right balance of clean/gain/volume in general. I have some Texas Instruments and some ST, all of the TI sounded way too “weak”, alas noise would slip through, not enough power, etc. SI are better but still you have to choose the right ones. I did this by ear.
Good TL072s are the secret to this pedal: i tried a bunch of germanium diodes: lots of the aforementioned russian ones, both matched and unmatched, but also Valvo OA81, OA91, RL32S11, AAY22.. guess what? They didnt impart any specific tonal character to the pedal.

As it is, the Klon is a good, clean, very musical buffer/overdrive.
Without a strung out, breaking amp though, i have my doubts it would save the day.

I prefer the good old dirty Rangemaster to the Klon i suppose.

bea!
yours truly

Tonezilla mkii

image

I just rebuilt a friends tone bender mkii i gave him almost 2 years ago. Realised component values were all over the place, my mistakes, crossing oc81d and oc75 schems it seems.. ah beer days..
Now sober as a court jury, i wrote it all down. I made some sort of magic there, the pedal is one of the most powerful mkii i ever made, most likely due to my errors.
The original had carbon comps/ carbon film resistors and dubilier, philips electros, wima caps. This has wima, roe caps and carbon film/metal film resistors but still sounds amazing.
Since he gigs a lot, i had a mission to build it like the proverbial tank.. and to shuffle the controls a bit: he wanted to have the q3 bias out in lieu of the attack pot, that he uses maxed all the time (it now sits inside as a trimmer).
I messed up the decal a bit, hope he wont mind…

image

bea!
yours truly

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