Tag Archives: masuto

Roland TR-505 stuff

Points for individual outs (audio signals-add ground from ground point)


Ground

Points for bit-crushing effects: just solder to leads and strike them against the other at pleasure.. i dont like bending stuff, but this is the way it came when i bought it second hand..

I bought a ROM expansion that adda DMX, LINN DRUM and LN1 sound samples.

Desolder IC11


Solder the ic socket


Solder the switch to the pcb



All done! 

You can buy the expansion here:

http://harryaxten.altervista.org/tr505expansion.html

RE303 TB303 replica building tips

The RE303 project is an amazing one-man effort to diy the Roland TB-303 Bassline to the extreme- starting with a cloned PCB of the original, and with a lively forum of rare parts being offered, recommended, sold and traded to make a 1:1 copy of the 303 (well, at least the circuitry).

Given the rarity and price tag associated with the original items, it should be of interest to anyone who’s a fan of Roland’s illustrious past.

I plunged into this project because i love acid house and its main voice, the TB303. I associate its sounds to the words “pearl”, “drop”, and the adjectives “wet” and “chirping”.

As anyone reading my blog already knows, i own a couple of x0xb0xes but neither of them had that “pearly” sound.

Cue the beginning of Phuture’s “Acid Trax”. The bassline rises from what seems to be white noise, a shash of the volume pot being slowly turned up.. the real TB303 must do magic stuff like that.

This is considered hardcore diy but really, it is hardcore part sourcing- you can choose how close to an original, you want it to be. I have used a mixture of carbon film and metal film resistors, whereas the original only has carbon films.. most people go for the all-carbon build, just to give you an idea of the scene.

Ok, i bought the Space Cadet kit from dinsync.info and it arrived from Sweden in a low profile box, the pcbs wrapped in egyptian hyeroglyphics printed paper, very trippy. Also included are a couple of rare transistors, the pots, a Sumida coil, the bare rare basics.

Shopping:

-first of all i ventured out to buy knobs, buttons: syntaur.com, ebay

-rare transistors: the forum, more ebay action after a fake parts scare brewing through the forum with parts being measured, pictured and compared.

One user also measured all his TB303’s transistors and wrote down the hfe: ch-ch-ch-check it ooout!

On the RE303 forum, there is a link to a Mouser cart with all the non rare stuff, but since my local retailer has got quite a good selection of vintage stock (1980’s), i decided to shop local and save on Mouser’s over inflated shipping and handling costs.

-Enclosure: on the forum it is offered in metal sheet, with fully customable graphics, or the “official metal case” with dinsync.info and RE303 logos, the mandatory plastic puzzle like cad template is also present..

This guide adds just a few tips to the already thorough building manual-stuff that has been replied on the forum or that i found out myself (not a lot).

If it’s not there, it should be here!

To build this i used a 35w cheapo soldering iron, just keep the point clean at all times, non rohs-approved solder, a cheap chinese diy oscilloscope (i bought it prebuilt, or as the ebay buy it now listing said, pre-“welded”), my Atlas Peak transistor tester, a simple DMM. I measured all the parts before soldering them to the board. I socketed all the IC spots.

Using the official enclosure?

Do this:


to the switches pcb first of all- make sure you dont cut the ground line!

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Power supply section notes: use a nice and heavy switching (aka regulated) power supply/ ac dc transformer, centre negative. That way you wont burn yourself if you happen to touch the power transistor (it happened to me!).

Before you do anything, take a picture of the unpopulated pcb and print it. This will serve you as a guide to track down the position of so and so components, orientation of diodes and electrolytic caps, etc anything that once built, will not be easily readable-and you are going to need it once the built is over and you are going to need calibrating or (hopefully not) troubleshooting.

Build the power section after fitting the preliminary parts and all those jumpers (they are a lot and if you have an issue locating some of them, either look for some hi res pics @ the forum or, just leave it and you will find them as you go).

Some people like to put coloured tubing to the jumpers to add a nice lively effect to the build, i chose not to but it really is a nice idea. The trending colour is yellow as of April, 2017. 😊

Follow the official guide closely to measure and make sure the voltages are correct.. if you are having issues getting the magic 5.333v at TP5, you will have to “play” with R174, aka sticking a 4k7 resistor in parallel with it to lower its resistance. I soldered the 4k7 at the other side of the pcb. That gave me more play to dial the required voltage using the trimmer.


Build the VCO..

I have a 500R PTC tempco, as per original, but it did not fit the pcb with the components populated-i soldered it at the back of the pcb, shrink-tubed.

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Here’s where that elusive D25 goes..

The pads in this section are very close.. if you check the schematic, you wouldnt worry too much about it, some of them are connected! For these you will need a tighter tolerance, 0,1% resistors.

(Please note the original had carefully chosen 0,5% tolerance resistors in this spot).


Do not forget to mark the parts going into those sockets and the IC orientation..

I used, 1N914 diodes instead of 1N4148 there-dont ask me why I did, but they should be pretty much the same.

That 303 ‘squarish’ wave through my cheapo unmodded chinese oscilloscope..

To check the waveforms, use the outmost pin of the waveform switch (ground) and the middle pin (positive).

Build the filter.

If should need a reference of how the transistors are oriented in this section, there you go:

Please note how i socketed the trannies of the filter section, it might be interesting to swap them later with different ones (as it happened, the 303 had a few revisions and the filter section uses transistors as diodes, so you may actually hear a subtle variation of its sound caused by the different transistors used).

This is also where the trimmer TM3 is (you will come back to this later when it comes to tuning the 303 properly).

To check the resonance, use this pin (aka TP6) of the pot-the furthest to the right. When you solder this specific pot, make sure it is aligned with the others.. look at how the pots sit from the side before soldering its six terminals. The rightmost pin is TP6, one of the testing points of the 303. Where is TP6? There. Remember.

Build the envelope section

Space Cadet kit, ENV pot is unmarked- just measure it with a MM, it should be 1M ohms.

Build the VCA

Remember that the positive pole of the tantalum capacitor is marked on the pcb.

Remember q21 is not marked on the silkscreen.

Please note the ‘1’ mark, on top of R125, that signals the appropriate BA662A (aka ic15) pin 1 alignment.

Make sure you solder the two trigger jacks before you fit cap C37 to give you an idea of the cap measure you should use if you are not following the mouser cart..

Remember: at any time, these cv and trig are OUTbound signals.

Once you have all the i/o jacks fitted, you will get your mind blown by listening to the sound of you RE303 for the first time upon testing your work so far accomplished.

Digital section

If you cannot find where they are, R181 is the one needing a bit of tubing, R182 is the to the left of the DIN socket pads.

Solder the selector and time pots with the pins aligned to the pads holes-they must not surface the back of the pcb! Try to solder them as even as possible.


If you are using the Sonic Potions CPU (like i did), just remember to leave out the ics as per the CPU’s installation manual.

The CPU will have to be fitted to the proper sockets: check this pic.

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Rare part: the DIN sync jack.. I found it locally, from my retailer!

I had to remove the two innermost pins (it’s a double switch) to fit the pcb pads.. here’s what it does: when you plug a din sync drum machine, the internal sequencer timing is turned off and the TB303 is synced to the master DIN.

Two pins must be clipped off..But it fits perfectly!

I like the idea that my RE303 is powered by Philips.. πŸ™‚

img_7109

Please remember, if you are using the RE-303 official case, you will have to solder the midi dins directly to the SP ic.. just rock the molex male back and forth until it breaks and.. Bob’s your uncle.


Buttons/switches section.

Please note how i had to bend the transistors-i subbed the original miniaturized transistors with 2sc1310 (310) for the 2SC2603 but the SA115 could not be substituted-i tried to but experienced crazy behaviour on the keyboard..some switches were not working, etc

The silkscreen shows only the emitter mark of the transistors in this section.

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I used shrink tubing cut to measure instead of the 6mm high led holders.

Due to the space constraint dictated by the height of the CPU sockets, I soldered the HD2 wires to the top of the switches PCB.

The wires linking the two pcbs have been wrapped with paper scotch tape in a flat cables fashion.

And.. ready!

Hohner Basset

When i bought it it looked like this


I opened it up to clean it and realised this wasnt its original colour.


It really was taupe gray before, but the years had the plastic chassis yellowing

I decided to restore it to its original colour (or as close as i could…)

After 5 months of great fun, I had to open it up because the output went silent.

Gutshots of the Hohner Basset!

Lets start with the DIN jack that connects it to the bass amp..


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Keyboard:

Circuit board and caps jungle:

Inside the white enclosure there’s a lamp and a ldr.. this assembly is the actual “percussion” section.

You press a note on the keyboard, the light goes off slowly (sustain) according to the knob position, when not in auto mode.

Video below..

Pcb: 3.1967!!

Ahem this means the caps have been doing their job for 50 long years! Only one of the capacitors has failed, please note- the blue valvo 100uF cap now measures 1uF!

Output DIN and 3 pronged jack, fuse

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Video showing the lamp going off when a note is keyed.

Yamaha RS7000 keyboard soft touch button repair

I bought some soft touch button replacements for my RS7000, because the keyboard had to be banged on to operate.. 

Here’s how i carried out the button repair.

Disclaimer: please carry out this repair only if you have electronic skills such as soldering, desoldering, handling pcbs and know how to handle electronics. Remove the mains plug on the RS7000 and use care. Do not touch the power supply components. I shall not be held responsible if you hurt yourself or other people or the machine in the process.

First of all, check the new buttons. There are a few tutorials on how to check switches’ functionality using a digital multimeter on the net, google that up. 

Remove all the knobs from the front panel.

Wash them with soapy water using an old toothbrush!

Turn the unit face down, using some soft padding to relieve the knobs from the weight.

Keep this pic as a reference: the position of the midi sockets.

There are 3 types of screws..Put them somewhere safe (i used three fruit jam lids) and remember where each type goes. An additional set of two very thin screws belong to the scsi port. 

As a rule of thumb:

short ones-> they hinge the metal sheet that separates the top from the bottom pcbs. The top left and middle left ones secure the bottom to the metal cover of the power supply as you will realise opening the unit.

Remove the bottom lid. 

Unscrew the midi assembly and the buttons holding the input/ output panel in place and take it off.

Take pictures of the pcbs. 

Pay extra attention to the cables, what goes where. How they are turned, and move them the least you can. They are the right lenght to be assembled, very neatly laid out, Yamaha styleπŸ˜‰πŸ‘ŒπŸ».

The bottom cables are all tied together and they originate from under the shielding metal sheet..right where we want to get! Carefully, gently rock them to pull them out of their sockets.

You will have to remove the card reader assembly, the flat wire (just pull it) and all the screws that link the metal sheet to the case will have to go (pay no mind to my pics cos mistakenly i unscrewed also some of the pcb’s).. 

Below, this is the central layout, the wiring harness pops out from underneath the metal sheet shielding. 

The plastic motherboard shield will have to go. Please note how its left side kind of sits on top of those surface mounted chips. 

Gently lift the shielding metal sheet, get your girlfriend or boyfriend or your best caring and patient relative to hold it up for you.


Remove the cables that hold the keys assembly in place, and carefully slide it out from one side.

Here is the ugly mother.. Turn it around and take a look at how the key covers are snapped in their places. It takes a little inward motion using two fingers from the bottom side, push and they will spring out.

Put them in a sink and wash them with shower soap and water. Brush them with that old beaten toothbrush. Carefully, but with authority. 

Please note that generally there are soft touch and clicking buttons, maybe you want to dust the encoders too, i took a rag and dusted the pcb too, TAKING EXTRA CARE.
If you are feeling tired and the stress of the procedure so far has got you on your knees, put the board in a padded cover and go to sleep.

When you are in the right mood and focused, you may proceed.

Take a look at how the soft buttons are put, their position from all angles. Your new ones will have to be laid out just like that. Maybe even better, if they all look twisted like mine!

Turn the board over, using a hot soldering iron heat up one of the two soldered poles of the switch and using a desoldering pump suck the solder off. Do the same for the other. 

The nice folks at Yamaha have bent the two poles in opposite directions, one upwards – the other downwards, so that to remove the button you must heat up a bit the two points (solder side) while gently applying a circular motion to the button, taking it with two finers, component side..

πŸ‘ Like in this video:

RS7000 removing soft touch switches

Using the same procedure, you could also replace a few LEDs if you feel inclined, just be careful with the LEDs height.

Once you are done replacing the faulty keys, put the button masks back on. 

The tap button does not have an LED, but its mask is like all the others (check pic)-it’s all right.


Putting everything back in its place, take special care with the central wire harness: the cables have to reconnect to their original sockets, so beware if they get stuck somewhere they should not-you might not be able to plug them in. Reassemble everything with care in respect to the wires.

It is quite a long procedure, also given how many screws you will have to work with-panic may take over you once you realise there are two pcb levels in this machine, but fear not. It CAN de done!

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Ram’s Head Battersea Power Station Big Muff β‚½i

    

When i was a Londoner, id often catch the 24 bus on sunday mornings from Hampsted Heath to its final destination, Pimlico. There was a pub there, next to the bus station where we would go have brunch and shoot pool. In the afternoon we would visit the Tate, usually.

And we would enjoy the beautiful, post modern view of the Battersea Power Station from Pimlico.

Gilmour used a rams head Big Muff on Animals.

Built for a friend on a pcb by OP ELECTRONICS, IT. Transistors BC239C from ebay seller, Whazzgroover. Sprague caps, etc

First time i mess with a hot glue gun, and i guess you can tell! 🐣