Assorted pics of the actual boards.. might be useful to someone.
That good old recappin’ blues:
Since one of the boards was GLUED to its standoff, i had to solder some caps on top of the older ones.. now one of the caps had leads so short i thought it might be useful to remind myself where does each lead went (see pic w scribble).
And the odd freaky transistors that didnt have its legs cut off (and indeed they were perilously almost touching)
The FR8L can produce 13 drum sounds-and very crispy too, thats why i decided to modify it..
Circuitbenders.co.uk’s trigger module: wires aplenty, but this will allow me to trigger each drum sound from a midi to trigger highly liquid board, that has been assembled back in the day to control my fr3-a build/mod and brilliantly carried out by circuitbenders.co.uk (you can see it HERE and HERE TOO).
The trigger board for the fr8l can be ordered HERE but remember, stock is limited.
Please note a male/female hex spacer (m3 22mm) is needed to screw the trigger board to the existing hex nut.
I decided to put the trigger input jacks in an external box-lots of fun soldering all the tiny jacks!
External PSU mod:
From an idea by circuitbenders.co.uk
Due to the nature of the machine it is best to reduce background noise as low as possible-and an external power supply may be a better power source than the provided transformer since the filtering in the power supply section is basically nil.
I had to make a quick mod here so if you may, bear with the crudeness of these connections-i was also low on cables so pardon the lacking colour scheme..
Remove the transformer (WARNING: Dangerous voltages around this area)
First of all take a nice picture or two of where the transformer cables were originally.
The plastic thing where the red orange and black wires go is a diode bridge-check the schematic from the FR8L service manual, it has to be removed along with the transformer. We’ll reuse thosw wires so just cut them and leave them hanging for now.
Then when everything has been unscrewed and cables cut, make a bridge connection between the two pins of the on off switch at the tagboard end (pink cable).
Red and orange cables soldered to the positive side, grey cable connecting all black leftover cables to the negative side.
To attenuate noise from using a switching psu i put a choke in series with the positive pole, and a 2200uF 50v capacitor in parallel between + and – like this:
Remember the resistor between + at the psu and the orange cables (you can barely see it in the picture because i used some spare shrink tubing to prevent shorts).