Tag Archives: using

Altec 1592B repair, 1588B module, XLR pinout output etc

Recently i got a nice Altec 1592B mixer.

Each input requires a dedicated preamp/transformer module, for microphones there’s preamp, 1588B or preamp+12v phantom power, model 1588C.

I had to do a massive recapping job on the 1592B- the original caps values were all over the place-and i mean not only electrolytics-the only ones that were still measuring ok were the tropical fish and some of the lower values disc caps- though most of the electrolytics were good quality, Mallory or West Germany made, ROE (Roederstein). I replaced them all with Elnas (they seem to be the standard nowadays).

Also, the resistor after power transformer 7818 (that feeds part of the tone section, so if you have an unit that powers up but does not produce a sound, check for +18v at pin 6 of the tone board, that is linked to the power board after (out) the aforementioned 7818) was burned-clear sign that some damage had taken place. The schematic calls for a 10 Ohms resistor-i decided to put a 100 ohms substitute, much better.

Sounding good, i decided to recap also the 1588B module i have here (more are on the way, and when factory new, they were fitted with 3 modules).

After using a small screwdriver to pry the enclosure open, i took a look at this interesting blog (check it) for the schematic-i also took the time to sub the carbon comp resistors with metal film and yes-noise went down.

For your reference, here’s the resistors network:

Q1 and Q2 pinout:

Troubleshooting:

If the preamp is not working, check carefully the resistors-they break easily. One immaculate looking (inside and out, the spongy filler still in good soft condition, no leakages on the plastic screen etc) 1588B i have had a resistor broken at its base, and since the components are so squeezed together it was impossible to see it-i decided to test the transistors (thats why i took the q1 and q2 pics above) since everything was looking proper-and there-i spotted the broken resistor! The preamp would still burst in noise if i knocked the mic gently on the capsule, yet it wont amplify it properly. Thats the resistor connected to ground on the white wire-a pain to desolder too.

If you must desolder stuff, be patient-these boards wont take a 300 degrees hot iron-the circuit tracks will lift if you heat them up too much-use care.

Since someone over at the Tape Operator forum has raised the warning that the power supply may have been ill designed, i am powering it using an external psu (using the battery option), 24v dc.

Terminal: from left, my battery (external psu) connections (- and +) and pinout to wire an XLR balanced jack to the output: hot, cold and ground… in the mess between high and low impedance i went with, 600 ohms, good for any mixer or recorder input. PLEASE note 2 and 3 terminals are bridged (connected) at the terminal post. The signal is nice and strong.

I will not mod this unit, i like it as it is. Nice and retro sounding.

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TR707 TR727 reset, midi out, tricks etc

Reset your TR707 or TR727 to factory settings.. here is the buttons combination to give your drum machine a fresh new start and to check leds and screen, buttons.

Keep pressed CLEAR and INSTRUMENT/GUIDE and switch on the legendary (yes, legendary) drum machine.

All the lights will turn on, then step leds will blink one by one.

After the light show, press ENTER/CARTRIDGE to proceed with the screen test.

Press the buttons and see the relevant dots show up on the screen.

Switch off.

How to use the TR707 or TR727 to output midi notes, and use it as a midi controller to play other midi modules, samplers (bear in mind its defaut midi channel is 10):

STOP the pattern/track if it is playing.

Enter TRACK PLAY mode.

Holding SHIFT press INSTRUMENT/GUIDE and MIDI CHANNEL.

This procedure will mute the instrument’s internal sounds but will allow you to control external gear using the TR707 or TR727.

To revert back to default, using the internal sounds but NOT transmitting midi notes, and if you have a TR707/727 that is silent, just use the same keypresses again.

Common troubles with these machines:

PSU jack fail, power transistor 78M05 (can be substituted with 78S05), power supply section electrolytic caps.

Dim screen=check the power supply section.

Try different psu transformers too: Roland’s own are recommended, etc

These are machines that heal themselves.. put them aside for a while or leave them turned on for some time and they will fix themselves.

Maybe.